Thursday, July 13, 2006


"In Tepito everything's for sale, except the people's dignity"
--Fernando, regional leader of commerce in Tepito.

Tepito is the black market district of Mexico City and you can buy anything you want there - sneakers, software, arms, animals and more (though it is rather hard to find organs there, apparently Tijuana's the place for kidneys). Historically, one of the most dangerous districts in Mexico City, Tepito received its name from its inhabitants over 90 years ago. To watch each other's backs the residents would whistle if there was danger approaching - if something happens to you, "Me pitas", if something happens to me "Te pito".

Migas con hueso is the traditional dish of tepito and there are various stands and little restaurants throughout the neighborhood selling the dish. It's some type of bone marrow soup and is filled with herbs, bread, and huge beef bones.

We ended our black market tourism at the Tepito Community Center where off-duty cops and neighborhood dudes play handball - Fernando had to talk to some guy there about some business. It was Thursday and according to Fernando: Viernes son sociales, Sábados sexuales y Domingos familiares.


On Saturdays, outside the metro Balderas, in front of Teatro Ciudadela, people get together to get down.

There are many options to take part in - dance classes and competitions.

Also, though I haven't completely figured out the protocol (it seems as though an orange sticker on your lapel must be obtained), there are areas where you can dance in pairs to Danzón or Salsa or Cumbia. Most of the people seem to arrive on their own without a pair and dance with various partners throughout the day.

Everyone gets dressed up and looks sharp.

Thursday, June 29, 2006


During a trip to Oaxaca I took a little journey to Monte Albán the ancient Zapotec city. This is a view of the rainstorm that caught us on the drive back down to Oaxaca.

Tuesday, June 27, 2006


Crespo Street, Oaxaca

Sunday, June 25, 2006


Thursday, June 22, 2006


On Friday I went to the Zócalo to watch the Mexico/Angola game. My friends were among the masses. When I contacted them to figure out where they were I was told to enter the jewelry store on the southwest corner of the square, head to the back of the store, take the elevator to the top floor and look for them. I ended up at an open-air restaurant called La Terraza del Zócalo. There were at least 30 tvs broadcasting the game, a 4' diameter pan of paella and you could still peer down at the huge screen in the Zócalo. The view turned out to be more exciting than the game, but hopefully I'll relive the experience with a more exciting match on Saturday when Mexico faces off against those blue and white boludos from down south.


Metro Tacubaya

Wednesday, June 14, 2006


"The “corporate centre”of Lomas de Santa Fe, as locals know the area, is located in a hilly section of the sub-municipal district of Alvaro Obregón in the Federal District's western edge. A new metropolitan centrality located 30 km from the Benito Juárez international airport and 40 km from Toluca airport in the State ofMexico, the redeveloped Santa Fe now has a completely different shape from what it did two decades ago: the area had first contained various sand mines and it subsequently became home to huge city dumps. The steep hills below the development, however, are still largely occupied by precarious popular settlements and low-income neighbourhoods." (Taken from urban-age.)

This is perhaps the closest thing in Mexico City to Dubai.

Thursday, June 08, 2006